I've found that a narrow tipped pen is good for transferring the patterns because it highlights where you have traced and it also is hard enough to do a proper transfer.

The beginner always has some problems that they need help with. This column will offer some basic help for the beginner and if there
is a question you have, please send
it to this Newsletter (newsletter@
southwestwoodcrafts.com.
One question is how to trace patterns. Some folks believe in making copies on toner based copiers
and then using a hot iron on top
of the copy to transfer it to wood. I've found the bast way is to use blue graphite transfer paper
(Saral transfer paper). Do not use regular carbon paper since it is very
difficult to erase. By using transfer paper you can copy as little or as much detail as you think is needed.

I haven't used Chaco Paper, where the transferred image can be removed with a damp cloth. As far as the Saral transfer paper the image can be erased by a common pencil eraser. Sometimes the images get "stubborn" and you need to use a typewriter or ink eraser. I've found that when transferring the patterns you can also make notes on the transfer about where to darken and where to lighten things.

Well, a lot of basic questions are common with beginning burners. One question is how to prevent the "bumping" of the burns. The iron goes over a ridge and there is a dark spot. Well, the first thing is to make sure the work piece is sanded as smooth as can be. Then sometimes working WITH the grain will resolve this. Meaning that it is easier to burn

along the grain that across it. Also, the beginner usually applies more pressure than is necessary. The pressure which should be used is a lot less than writing with a pencil. The weight of the pen can exceed what is a prudent pressure and sometimes times you have to actually exert an upward pressure on

the pen, to reduce the pressure. So, make sure the wood is sanded the best as possible, and use very little pen pressure. Practice these concepts on some scratch wood to see the effect.

Well, one of the primary concerns is to have a nice clean and sanded piece of wood to work with. It can never be smooth enough. Usually you can start with 100 grit, advance to 220, then to 320. Once the piece seems smooth enough you can then go to a 600 grit. Some folks stop here, but I like to finish off with 1500

grit. Depending on what you are burning you can also "burnish" the wood with a wooden dowel. You just take the dowel and rub it over and over the wood until all the fibers are flat. It has an effect of actually polishing the wood. It becomes more evident when the finish is applied.

A "test" that some people do, is to take their finger nail and lightly drag it ACROSS the grain. If it catches, it isn't smooth enough and requires more sanding.